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emo Stukning tips?

Mer
12 år 6 månader sedan #9662

Hej.

En kilad handsmidd sko är stukad i båda ändar och sträckt på mitten.
Bara för att intne hamna för mycket utaför tråden, så kommer en bild på en stukning ochså

Bilagor:
Mer
12 år 6 månader sedan #9664

Ska hoven luta framåt med den där skon?

Ingemar


Jobbar gärna i järn, jobbar gärna i koppar, men helst jobbar jag i bara mässingen!
Mer
12 år 6 månader sedan #9666

Enkelt förklarat, ja, eller om det "saknas" hov där bak, så kan denna va bra.

Mer
12 år 6 månader sedan #9668

Hej Ivar
-ja jag menar ditt städ, du har ett par extra-klackar på hornet, är det någon speciell hovslagarvariant ?
Smén i Lysekil.


Visst är det så att livet skrynklar ihop oss ibland men som tur är så utvecklas vi ju också.
  • johan sangberg
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Mer
12 år 6 månader sedan #9675

martin-smed skrev:

Hej Ivar
-ja jag menar ditt städ, du har ett par extra-klackar på hornet, är det någon speciell hovslagarvariant ?
Smén i Lysekil.

Svar postat av Ivar i ny rubrik "Hosvagarstäd" under Ämnet Smidesstäd.
Länk till ny tråd..
http://www.antracit.se/forum/index.php? ... pic=2503.0


Johan Sangberg
Mer
7 år 10 månader sedan #31980

When you run the quenching water usually must be towards the lower limit of the temperature quenching of steel that will harden.

The geometry of the piece clearly has a 'crucial. More subtle are the sections or more complex geometry (section changes, sharp edges, etc.) the greater the risk of breakage, especially by using drastic as the extinguishing water.

Use cold water further increases the risk of rupture.

If for various reasons, you want to do the timer function in water (because the steel, for example, has a low hardenability and must achieve higher hardness values) you can do a shutdown or a shutdown interrupt "alternate".

In practice dip the steel in water for 3-4 seconds (of course I speak of seconds for the thickness used in cutlery). Then dip the razor in oil.

This method is users have a rapid cooling prior to martensitic transformation and to have started when a slow cooling (about to start or has started recently) the martensitic transformation.

One of the big problems is that water indeed has a 'high-speed off ache at temperatures which typically occurs in the transformation of martensite.

You can also try using distilled water rather than tap water. Lets do a shutdown of oil still faster speed, but not as fast as the tap water.

The high alloy as A2, D2, ATS34, etc. RWL34. non-quenching water.

It serves no purpose, since they have a 'high hardenability, if not to increase internal tensions and the risks of breakage or distortion.

You might find this interesting article written years ago by Randal Graham on quenching in water. Also briefly explains the advantages of lowering the hardening temperature, increasing the time-keeping.

http://www.dfoggknives.com/waterhardening.htm
Summarize briefly what is written in:

The first reason is definitely breaking the thickness of the section, too limited. With a grinding flat and 6 / 10 to the wire, the fracture water is assured. Even in oil risk distortion if you are not careful to keep everything smooth.

The temperature is too high might be a motivation. The difference between quenching in oil or water in a steel blade, in terms of temperature before cooling range of about thirty degrees.
Then could have affected the structure of steel before quenching. I read that it is common practice for those hardening steels with high water content of C, to various thermal cycles before quenching to refine the grain and reduce the hardenability of steel.

Repeated thermal cycles mean normalization of the blade, before tempering. It 'very useful to avoid distortion.
This technique could also use steel "low" carbon content.

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